A BRIEF History OF THE WHITLANDS PLATEAU

In 2012 Rachael Croucher compiled and wrote a detailed history of Whitlands which was published in a 219 page book. The summaries below are based on this work.

INDIGENOUS SETTLEMENT

Before white settlement, it is thought two tribes or clans inhabited north east Victoria. The Pangerang tribe inhabited mainly the plains around Wangaratta, and the high country was inhabited by the Ya-itma-thang tribe, who wintered in the valleys and migrated to the Bogong High Plains annually to feast on Bogong moths after the snow had melted. Additionally, the Taungurung tribe identified the Powers Lookout Reserve as their Traditional Country.

The Whitlands Progress Association would like to acknowledge the traditional custodians of country throughout this region and Australia, and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and community. We pay out respects to them and their cultures; and to Elders both past and present.

land allocations open up

The arrival of permanent European settlers to the King Valley began in 1848. Up above the valley, ‘Whitfield Tablelands’ was shortened to ‘Whitlands’ and a new area was born. Under the new Land Act of 1869, land was made available for lease to the public. A unlikely driver of this initiative was the capture of bushrangers Ned Kelly and Harry Power. With sympathisers still hiding out, any potential of recurring outlawry was eliminated by surveying the area and opening it up to public selection - essentially evicting any troublemakers. In 1880, a local man, Rowland Hughes selected 220 acres at the northern end of the plateau, making him the first official European inhabitant. The ‘road’ at this time was just a rough bridle track mostly carved out by bushrangers and prospectors.

THE EARLY DAYS…

It seems the promise of fertile soil and cheap land appealed to the next wave of settlers. Motivated by attractive land lease arrangements, these new arrivals first had to clear their land in order to access the rich soil for their crops. By all accounts life was a battle - cold, remote and rugged - but the main challenge was transporting the crops to market over 40 miles away in Benalla. The railway to Whitlands was never installed meaning that transporting crops to market was disproportionately difficult. Not to mention limited access to medicine and supplies also. Such was the challenge that many abandoned their plans - returning the plots as crown land.

the early 1900’s

The railway to Whitfield was completed in 1899, offering some respite for those who needed to access larger towns. But in town, jobs were scarce & the economy was slow - so the offer of cheap land, abundant water and fertile soil attracted more new families to Whitlands because it offered the prospect of self sustainability. By the 30’s and 40’s a community emerged. Mostly living on farm grown food, with necessities procured from the Whitfield or Tolmie store. The beginning of the logging industry emerged also. Post & telegraph opened in Whitfield in 1928. A major re-allignment of the road in 1930 should have created jobs but most working on the project were paid only in rations, as the Great Depression took it’s toll on the national economy.

THE WHITLANDS PROGRESS ASSOCIATION

The Whitlands Progress Association has existed in one form or another since 1925. In fact, from 1933 - 1955 there were actually two groups working in tandem, amalgamating in 1955. In any case, the WPA has been remarkably successful in lobbying for assistance from the government on various projects. It is still going strong today and you can read about current projects here.

a rich agricultural heritage

With the help of the Progress Association, farmers in Whitlands banded together to learn the best ways to manage their farms of berries, oats, millet, potatoes and dairy cows. Most farms grew one or more crops, providing work and income as the economy came back to life after the Great Depression. Experimental patches were set up in the 40’s at the Skirving property in conjunction with the agriculture department. The valuable cream from the dairy cows was transported to Whitfield in ‘the cream bus’ - (which also doubled as the mail delivery!) and was sent on to the butter factory in Moyhu. Apparently this service is superior to the one we have today!

the whitlands school

After a frustrating 7 years of applying for government assistance, the Whitlands State School opened in 1933 with 8 students. On crown land, the school was built entirely by volunteer labour, as the government had agreed to provide a teacher only ‘if there was a building’. The school operated up until 1946, with ebbs and flows in numbers, peaking at 17 students. It reopened again in 1963 with seven students, closing again 7 years later. After closing, students were bussed to Whitfield, and the building, while intermittently used for functions was eventually demolished in 2000. The school history is rich with stories of long walks, cold days, harsh teachers and all kinds of shenanigans and mischief. The pictures below show some insight into life during this period.

Throughout the mid century other community initiatives were implemented to great success: a community funded hay baler was invaluable, in addition to a butchers cart and grocery delivery. There was a real sense of working together which enriched the community immensely.

harry power & powers lookout

Allegedly Ned Kelly’s mentor, Harry Power was an Irish born ex-convict who was jailed in Pentridge for shooting a trooper. Upon his escape he went on a thieving spree, ending up in Whitlands where he set up a ‘lookout’ to keep watch over the King Valley. Luckily, he had allies - including a noisy peacock who ‘was the best watch dog of the lot’, and wasn’t apprehended until a year later. These days, his lookout has been upgraded to modern standards: a road was added in 1924 and a hut was built in 1957. More recently, steel platforms and steps were added to safely access the farthest point where the magnificent views over the King Valley and beyond can be enjoyed. It is a significant landmark and tourism attraction for the region.

SAW MILLS AND THE RISE OF INDUSTRY

The old trees in Whitlands are a sight to behold. With tall, straight trunks, these trees fast became a source of income for families from the 1930’s until about the 1980’s. Felled with cross-cut saws and ‘snigged’ to the mills by teams of bullocks or horses, the early days of logging were tough. The 6 or so major mills in Whitlands provided jobs and as the industry modernised, offered more opportunity. From 1973, Dinny William’s mill operated right through to the mid 1990’s - providing jobs for many locals along the way. One of the more famous sawmill owners was the flamboyant Julia Hale, the only female in the industry, who ‘while in charge of many men’ famously built her business to the point where she sold her sky-blue Ford for a Rolls Royce.

1939 and 2006/2007 BUSHFIRES

FAMILY STORIES

RAY TRIADO AND THE STELLA MATvTINA CHAPEL

Ray Triado was a young, intellectual idealist whose magnetism and determination helped him establish and lead a remote religious commune based around prayer and manual labour. He purchased the Lipscomb property in Whitlands and through his contacts in Melbourne, attracted others to join him. Established in 1941 through to 1951, the community was first controversial, then applauded, then eventually disbanded by the higher powers in the Church. Their dedication however brought to life a chapel - built from logs milled onsite, fitted with an exquisite stain glass window that reads ‘stella matvtina ora pro nobis’ - meaning ‘morning star, pray for us’. An important building in the region, it can still be viewed today on the Burder family farm.

LIONEL & MONICA BURDER

Having been invited to visit the chapel community from his home in Melbourne, Lionel immediately felt at home amongst the rugged landscape and rustic buildings. He was impressed by Ray and his devotion to God and so, decided to stay. After the chapel disbanded, he married one of women involved in the commune - Maltese born Monica Curmi. With a typical industrious approach, the newly acquired land was farmed potatoes and timber in order to support their growing family. In the shadow of the chapel, a village materialised and with neighbours close by, it became a viable & enjoyable place to live - emulating almost what Ray had originally envisioned (with a little less prayer!). Monica and Lionel moved to Wangaratta in 2001, with Lionel passing in 2006. The four children all still live in NE Victoria, with David still on the original farm in Whitlands.